Today the expedition narrowed its focus from national issues to specific problems in the country-side. Over the last several days we witnessed an international court try Khmer Rouge leadership, and spoke to the UN Resident Coordinator about Cambodian poverty, as well as the UN's nationwide projects to eradicate it. All relevant, but all abstract. But today, we spoke face to face with a Khmer Rouge foot soldier; walked through the homes of rural Cambodians living below the $1 a day, and reviewed the water and biofuel projects that would elevate them out of poverty.
After an early start, and a quick stop by Star Kampuchea, the expedition team headed out to Thpong, a district approximately two hours from Phnom Penh known for its large Khmer Rouge presence. There we were received by Life with Dignity (LWD), the first NGO to enter Cambodia after the fall of the Khmer Rouge. Along with Vichet, the local coordinator for LWD, the district governor and the equivalent of two district sheriffs were present to greet us. We quickly realized that our presence represented quite an event for an area not used to seeing foreigners. The LWD director gave a text-book presentation of their projects and goals; LWD is clearly a sophisticated organization that speaks the language of development professionals and donors. Following the presentation, the team and our Khmer counterparts at LWD enjoyed a homemade lunch at picnic tables outside.
After lunch, LWD volunteers drove the team to a nearby village to inspect some of LWD's projects including an economically sustainable biofuel project that converts manure and human waste to natural gas used for cooking and lighting, a forty meter deep public well that provides water to the entire village, and projects as simple as providing a family ducks to raise. The town, comprised of approximately one hundred families, would be characterized by any organization as living in severe poverty. Despite the discussions all week of poverty in Cambodia, meeting the villagers and seeing how they lived gave the team a better understanding of how scarce available resources are.
Following the town visit, the expedition visited two large dams and reservoirs made for water retention and flood control, built courtesy of the Korean government. One of these dams, still incomplete, will provide electric power to the neighboring villages. While on the levee, the team decided to ask some neighboring farmers about their rice crop. After a brief conversation in their rice paddy, our Star Kampuchea counterpart noted that the farmers were most likely subsistence farmers who did not intend to sell their rice crop. The team could only hope that the dam project would improve the water supply and provide cheap electricity to these farmers.
After another nice dinner by our hosts at LWD, the group headed to a remote pagoda that had never had foreign guests before. Arriving at the pagoda in the dark, the team settled down for the night in two open-air dormitories with only thin mattresses, mosquito netting, and basic bedding.
Prior to turning off the electricity (provided by a generator), the team was greeted by the Buddhist monk in charge of the pagoda and the town director. After formal introductions were made, one of our Khmer counterparts at LWD mentioned that the town director was a former Khmer Rouge soldier who would be willing to speak with us. Surprised at the opportunity to speak to a Khmer Rouge soldier, the group quickly began to ask several questions.
For the next hour and a half the town director described how he had joined the Khmer Rouge in 1973 and remained active until the mid 1990s. From 1975 to 1979, he served as a driver. Although he seemed honest in his basic descriptions of the era, several in the team later thought that his lowly status as a driver did not seem appropriate given his extended involvement. Eventually most of the team headed to bed leaving on a few to carry on the interview.
By the end of the evening, neither the villagers living in poverty, nor the Khmer Rouge were faceless to the team anymore. By heading into the country, the team's conception of development issues had now become tangible and personal.
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